Welcome to the wardrobe of the contemporary woman: she mixes clothes and accessories, cuts and fabrics, colors and embroidery with a freestyle spirit. Her approach to fashion is spontaneous and realistic, and she masters it. The Dior fall 2016 collection is dedicated to her. Inside her closet, one finds iconic pieces inspired by Christian Dior’s era — so many essentials whose characteristic art of cut structures her style. Like a nod to the couturier’s creations, which simultaneously evoked the grace of flowers and the rigorous precision of architecture, skirts and even dresses are constructed like a tulip, with a flounce or flared peplum. Yet this play on mixing genres and references revisits the couturier’s heritage in unanticipated ways: the Bar jacket, an emblematic piece from his very first fashion show, is tweaked with double-breasted closure borrowed from the traditional men’s wardrobe; suits cut from stretch fabric zip up and emerge in a motif that reinterprets Christian Dior’s favorite Jungle print, and the Corolla skirt is now worn knee-length and in black leather. These key pieces lend themselves ideally to the game of composing a singular allure. First of all, there’s a play on proportion. There’s the association of body-skimming sweaters and stretch vinyl trousers worn like leggings – 2.0 versions of creations that were “molded by the curves of the female body,” as Christian Dior put it – or loose trousers, oversize coats, chunky knits and lowwaisted trenches. It’s a game of adaptation, too, as this urban wardrobe embraces ample cuts as well as nightwear-inspired lace slip dresses, second-skin leather and gusseted handbags that recall school satchels. In short, it’s all about the unexpected. Here, a long mink vest gilded in fine gold peeks out from underneath a roomy khaki coat. Elsewhere, jewelry appears in unpredictable ways: on the back of a deceptively simple dress, on a leather handbag, on a pair of boots – or embroidered into bees on a skirt. Christian Dior loved bees. He considered them a symbol of the meticulous work done inside ateliers that have never ceased to place their entire know-how in service of femininity.